Max:
Acclimatization is a very individual process and despite all the research that has been done, we still do not fully understand it. One thing that seems to hold true, although I know of no studies of why it holds true, is that the more times you go to altitude, even when spaced out by weeks and months the easier you adjust. Many climbers have noticed this effect. The good news is that by the time you reach your goal of climbing all of the CA 14ers you are probably going to be much more comfortable going from sea level to 14,000 feet. The bad news is that you are going probably suffer some horrendous headaches and other symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness while doing so. It sounds like you have a pretty good feel for a moderate altitudes already up to 11,000 feet. AMS can turn in to cerebral edema or pulmonary edema fairly quickly but with a one day ascent the most you are likely to suffer is a wicked headache and some stomach distress. Your pace will have to slow at these altitude and without good acclimatization it may slow dramatically. One last point is that in my experience racing up to and down from altitude before your body has a chance to react too strongly is better than sleeping one night at at the 10k level you mention. Sleeping at 10k you’ll have a crummy night of sleep and that additional time of exposure to altitude will be long enough to set off some of the body’s very strong negative reactions to an unaccustomed altitude. Your light and fast plan sounds like the way to go. Just take your favorite headache pills.
Scott Johnston
