Sometime in the late ’90s I was approaching a grade 6 Canadian ice climb, Virtual Reality, with my climbing partner Joe Josephson. As we walked and talked, the subject of Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face came up. I was the only one of us who had been to the Himalaya and I had seen the mythical “biggest wall in the world.” At the time the king line, the central pillar, was unclimbed and the famed 1970 route established by Reinhold and Gunther Messner and the Karl Herligkoffer–led expedition had not been repeated. Joe and I laughed about how awesome, and yet…
Author: Uphill Athlete
If you had told me when I was a kid that I would one day climb Mount Everest, I would not have believed you. Even though I grew up in Colorado, and my family and I spent a lot of time hiking in the mountains, I never thought real alpine climbing would become a part of my life. I remember often staring at a postcard of Everest that some family friends, development workers in Nepal, had sent me when I was a kid, thinking how incredible it would be to climb that incredible peak. But the idea that I might…
In this video tutorial, Scott Johnston discusses the purpose and process of doing muscular endurance (ME) workouts using a steep hill and a backpack weighted with water. This ME water carries video is complementary to the article "What is Muscular Endurance?" Scott offers great tips and technique for beginner to advanced athletes, honed by years of experience. Related Articles Aerobic Training Exercises for Muscular Endurance Strength Training Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete Aerobic Training What Is Muscular Endurance? Why Is It Important? How Do You Train It?
Why is that some alpinists can ascend 1,000 meters in an hour with a 15-kilogram pack when others struggle with 1,000 feet in an hour? What is it that confers this seemingly superhuman ability to cover vertical terrain? Simply put, it’s muscular endurance (ME), sometimes referred to as strength endurance. Muscular endurance training is of utmost importance to all athletes involved in cyclic sports (ones that use repetitive movements for locomotion) lasting over 30 seconds. Famed Russian coach and researcher Yuri Verkhoshansky was one of the first to explore and leverage this quality’s impact on sport performance. He defines ME…
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, Scott Johnston demonstrates a series of basic core exercises. This beginner progression is an excellent form of pre-conditioning for Scott’s Killer Core routine.Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, Scott Johnston demonstrates proper technique for box step-ups and the heel touch. Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, coach Scott Johnston demonstrates shoulder and rotator cuff exercises—for those dealing with an injury and those seeking prevention from such injuries. Perform 20–30 repetitions of each position twice daily. Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, coach Scott Johnston demonstrates shoulder mobility and warm-up exercises, which are especially important for climbers. Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, coach Scott Johnston demonstrates closed-chain glute med activation and strengthening exercises using resistance bands. Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."
In this Uphill Athlete video tutorial, coach Scott Johnston demonstrates box step-off exercises, which activate and strengthen the gluteus medius and vastus medialis oblique (VMO). Interested in learning more about developing strength for mountain sports? Check out "Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete."