Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete is the book that Steve House and his long-time coach, Scott Johnston, wrote over a 3-year period from 2011-2014 in order to answer the persistent question: “What do you do for training?” This is the book that led them to create www.uphillathlete.com, which was originally envisioned as a simple training Q and A forum. Scott initially predicted that we would print a few hundred copies and give most of them away to our friends. By January 2020 we’d sold over 100,000 copies in North America, with a Spanish translation recently made available in Spain and Latin America.
In Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of US National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston, who combined have over 60 years of experience, demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, whether you live in the city or the country, whether you are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals will grow exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd and many others. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.
- Foreword by Mark Twight
- Full-color photos, illustrations, and charts throughout
- Published by Patagonia Books
- 464 pages, 7 1/2” X 10 1/4”
- Printed in China on FSC 55% recycled paper
- 1502 g (3 lbs 5 oz)