[Thrusthamster]

Since I’m just starting out with technical alpine climbing I still have a long way with just working on my technical ability and knowledge before I feel ready to tackle a big objective.

I figure in about 2 years I’ll head out to the Alps. Before then I’ll be working on some grade AD to D alpine rock climbs in Norway where I live, and getting my 150 top-roped pitches of ice climbing (Will Gadd^tm) in before I start leading some ice. In addition to regular sport, trad and bouldering (if I don’t have anyone who wants to rope up).

In terms of endurance exercise, as far as I’ve understood it you need a good base to peak from before a big objective. I have knowledge of periodization from being a powerlifter for 5 years, and this sounds similar to what I know from that sport.

So I was wondering: Like I would as a powerlifter, if I was in this position I wouldn’t do a full periodized program. If I had a long time before my next “competition”, going through a full program where I build a base and then peak off that over 16 weeks or so, would be a waste of time. That last part of the program is just training to properly utilise what I built during the base period, and I’m not building any strength anymore. So I’d rather just hammer the volume until it was time to peak again.

Would the same apply for endurance training? Should I just keep building a base, and I guess in time slowly improve how fast I can move while staying in zone 1? Or would I stop gaining capacity and just be wasting my time?

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 28, 2017 at 6:19 pm #5005

Thrusthamster;

You’ve got it!! The more base you have the better. Think of it as a bank account. The more money in that bank account the more you can do with it before you find yourself out of money. At some point the pure volume approach of low intensity training will need to be supplemented with some additional higher intensity work so that the higher power muscle fibers also begin to get an aerobic training effect. As you will see when reading TftNA the high intensity work is not a replacement for, but is rather, a supplement to, the basic aerobic work used to elevate your aerobic threshold.
If you find yourself stagnating in aerobic progression then it will be time to add some Z3 or Z4 workouts 1x/week.

I hope this helps.
Scott