[gymbal]

Hi all, I’m trying to work out how long to spend on training each day, to which end I created this spreadsheet:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vkxqBBGc8h3gOAtw5Jpfo_FalTZuhM8rxbmmY3ya2Yw/edit?usp=drivesdk

TFTNA suggests a certain amount of time to train each week, and then uses percentages for each activity but then strength sessions would only be a few minutes long to begin with.

Am I reading it wrong and if so how should I correct the training schedule?

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 24, 2018 at 12:53 pm #9512

Can you change the permissions of the G-sheet to public? Right now, permissions are required to view it.

Or can you describe what your total weekly volume would be and what the percentages per mode would be?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 25, 2018 at 8:11 am #9527

Gymbal;
Keep in mind that the hours and the hourly progression we suggest are for the aerobic volume not including strength. This is because strength training progresses not so much by adding more time to the workout but by adding more weight (roughly speaking). So the strength workouts are stand alone out side these calculations. I understand this is not clear in the book and was the first mistake brought to our attention when the book was published. Our attempts to rectify make this mistake public have not been universally successful. When we reprint we will correct.

Sorry,
Scott

[hafjell]

hafjell on May 1, 2018 at 7:26 am #9607

Gymbal,
a year ago, I too read the book, then spent time building the perfect spreadsheet. I created my own plan as best I could by re-reading sections, sometimes two or three times. It worked ok, although, on my own, I made lots of mistakes.
This year, I bought a structured plan, and have been impressed with the level of detail included in Training Peaks. I wonder if you wouldn’t save yourself time and energy if you learned from my mistakes. I have very little doubt now about my training weeks. I know what and when I’m supposed to be doing. The workout descriptions are very good at anticipating questions.
Just one man’s experience.

[gymbal]

gymbal on May 1, 2018 at 9:58 am #9611

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the reply. Is there a recommend duration for strength sessions?

As I had it, the transition would start off with 38% of time being zone 1, 10% of time being zone 2, 17% being climbing and 35% being strength. Should I take out climbing and strength and leave it as 4:1 zone 1 : zone 2?

[gymbal]

gymbal on May 1, 2018 at 10:00 am #9612

Hafjell,

Having bought two copies of the book, I would expect to be able to train without having to pay more money for a plan! And wouldn’t everyone else like to know what to do without having to pay for the information that is already in the book that they have bought?

[hafjell]

hafjell on May 1, 2018 at 10:54 am #9613

“Is there a recommend duration for strength sessions?

As I had it, the transition would start off with 38% of time being zone 1, 10% of time being zone 2, 17% being climbing and 35% being strength. Should I take out climbing and strength and leave it as 4:1 zone 1 : zone 2?”

Gymbal, these questions are exactly why I recommend the training plans. I agree the “add-on” cost is a bummer for those on a tight budget. look at the plans as additive, not a replacement for a deficient book. I know I won’t convince you, so I’ll just wish you luck.

For those who might be interested, I will say that although I’m tired from training, my anxiety about what and when and how much to train has gone to zero. Wake up, work out, get on with the day.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 2, 2018 at 8:45 am #9619

Gymbal,

The book is not deficient, it is your understanding of the principles within; nor are you entitled to additional programs that the team has worked to put together for free. There is no hard capped time for a strength workout, it is on you to decide what you need to get out of those sessions. I encourage you to re-read the book, and explore online to answer questions that you may have. The benefit of paying for a training plan is that it shows you the theory in action so you can create your own plans in the future. I highly recommend this for someone without much of an athletic or sports science background. I also recommend TrainingPeaks as it shows weekly volume by workout type which makes it easy to track. More to your original question for example, strength workouts could include:

10m warmup + 1h20 hangboard session
10m warmup jog + 30m hill sprints + 10m cool down jog
30m max strength session
3h projecting a climbing route

There are just so many variables in programming strength, from general to specific, that you can’t toss out a firm number. If you are just starting out with general fitness and no training background looking for an 8 week beginner climbing cycle, I would probably recommend one or two general strength sessions per week at ~30-45m per session, two climbing days for max volume of pitches to learn technique, and two running or hiking days gradually increasing volume throughout the program, but that’s just me.

-Adam

[joecolburn]

joecolburn on December 1, 2018 at 4:35 pm #15057

I have recently started a 24-week training program. I have a couple of real basic questions I’m hoping to get some advice on.

#1 While I have done lots of running in the past, I find it difficult to take the pounding anymore. I am wondering if I can substitute cross-country skiing for the run days. If so, would you recommend the same time/distance or an increase?

#2. I am getting ready to do the first hike/run on hilly terrain which should last for 2 hours and include 1000′ of climbing. My question is the time suggestion just for the uphill section of the hike or for the entire hike.

Thanks.