[Alan Russell]

Hi,

I’ve started doing multi-pitch mountain trad. climbing in Scotland (marine climate, but summer time, so temperatures of 10-30 C) and I’m finding my pack quite heavy. I’m looking for advice on whether there’s fat I could/should trim, whether I should just suck it up and count it as part of the experience, or whether there might be things that I could/should usefully add.

This list is excluding climbing equipment, but I tend to take most of this in the pack, though split rack & rope with my partner.

My current list is:
– DSLR + batteries – 1,500 g (though I’ve got a mirrorless, and will switch to that once I’ve learned how to use it);
– pack – 1,300 g;
– 1 l Nalgene, 1,000 g;
– Shoes – 925 g;
– Food – 920 g (nuts, cacao nibs, boiled egg, peanut butter sandwich in hard plastic box, though I tend to have most of this left at the end of the day, so I’m thinking of switching to just a box of nuts, which I’ve done in the past);
– Waterproof bag with phone, wallet, knife, finger tape – 835 g;
– belay jacket – 645 g;
– guidebook – 530 g (I’m thinking I could cut this down by photocopying the most relevant pages and just taking that in a clear plastic bag);
– med. kit – 380 g;
– waterproof trousers – 345 g;
– waterproof jacket – 330 g;
– head torch x 2 – 300 g;
– survival bag – 255 g;
– sunscreen & insect repellent – 235 g;
– pad & pens – 145 g;
– gloves – 95 g;
– compass & whistle – 80 g;
– toilet roll – 60 g;
– hat – 45 g;
– map – 45 g;
– Buff – 35 g;
– Spare laces – 30 g.

So the total is about 8.5 kg.

As I say above, I think I could cut down on the camera, guidebook, and food, and I’m also thinking I could ditch the waterproof trousers and hat, but has anyone got good tips based on things they’ve found to work?

Cheers,

Alan

Topic

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on August 16, 2020 at 5:19 pm #44342

The camera and shoes are on my harness when climbing.

[Aaron]

Aaron on August 16, 2020 at 5:55 pm #44343

My thoughts for what it is worth.

Ditch or downsize the camera. Ditch the guidebook to a photocopy andimage on phone/camera. Pack itself could be lightened substantially. Ditch the second headlamp or switch to second minimal/ultralight. Ditch spare laces. Lighten med kit. Ditch repellent and radically downsize suncreen. Ditch pad and pens.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on August 17, 2020 at 10:52 am #44359

Having a belay jacket on top of waterproof pants and trousers would be overkill to me in a lot of routes I do in Canada. If it starts to rain on a rock climb I’m abseiling (or french freeing the easiest way up if it’s more convenient) and walking to safety as fast as I can, which in a lot of case might mean cold and wet for long enough to be uncomfortable but not long enough to become hypothermic. Also my weather forecasts tend to be pretty bomber when I commit to a long climb.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on August 17, 2020 at 6:41 pm #44364

Thanks for the replies. As I said, the camera downsize is in progress (I just need to learn how to use my mirrorless), and I’m thinking I’ll try to take photocopies of guidebook pages when I’m reasonable sure of where I’m going (I’ve done it in the past) – it’d probably also help to preserve my guidebook! Good to see that we seem to be of a similar mind. I’ve got another, slightly smaller pack which is 1 kg (300 g lighter) that I’ve used in the past, but struggled to get everything in/on it, though if I lighten the contents, that may get easier.

A good shout also on the spare headtorch – my secondary is an older and heavier one, which is probably worth upgrading from.

I’m inclined to keep the spare laces and med. kit contents, as I’ve found them useful. Likewise with the pad and pens, though I think I can thin them.

I don’t know if you’re familiar with climbing in the Scottish mountains in summer, but insect repellent is essential survival kit!

The weather in Scotland is pretty changeable, hence the waterproofs, but I’m thinking I could thin down the insulation.