While I’ve never been an ice climber (it’s elusive here in WA), I have occasionally climbed on the seracs of Mount Baker and done a few moderate steep snow/ice routes. I coupled a trip to visit my family in New England with three days of ice climbing in New Hampshire.
In order to be ready for the trip, I chose the 8 week Ice and Mixed Climbing Strength Plan for beginner to advanced Intermediate climbers. I added to that a little light running and continued my uphill walking/skinning on weekends.
My guide was fantastic. We spent a day at Frankenstein Cliffs to go over form and technique and a day at Mount Willard getting in pitches. The training paid off. This was especially evident in my grip strength on the short overhanging sections. I had a blast and definitely want to climb more ice.
On the third day, the weather gods smiled upon us (mostly) and we climbed Pinnacle Gully on Mount Washington. Fortunately the wind died somewhat, and we were able to go to the summit. Twenty years earlier, my mountaineering career started with a failed winter attempt of Mount Washington. Today, I am stronger, have more endurance, and better technique. Finally summitting this peak in the winter was very meaningful.
Thanks to Scott and Steve for teaching me how to train. I doubt I would have been so successful without implementing the lessons I’ve learned from TFTNA and the UA community!
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