[vik.waghray]

I have a series of varying objectives planned over the course of the next year, and I’m trying to figure out how best to plan my training so that I’m at least adequately prepared and fit for each of them. Specifically, I’m curious how I should consider periodizing training (i.e. how much emphasis to place on base vs strength vs muscular endurance) given the demands of each objective. A bit of background on myself: climbed the Kautz route on Rainier last summer, rock climb moderate grades in Yosemite/High Sierra, ran a 50k trail race last December, and had a decent season of ice climbing this winter. At the moment, I am finishing up a full cycle of rock climbing training (currently in the power phase). Afterward, I’m thinking of spending a month or so rebuilding my aerobic base supplemented with general&rock strength maintenance. Here’s my rough plan for the upcoming year:

end-May: spring mountaineering climb on Mt. Shasta

mid-June: high sierra ridge traverse covering 2-4 days over low-mid 5th class terrain (tentative)

mid-July: 8-day alpine climbing trip in the Bugaboos, 5.8-5.10 routes

August-November: various several rock/alpine climbing trips to Yosemite and High Sierra in effort to push grade, possibly a couple minor big walls

May/June 2020, a bit far out but on the radar: Cassin Ridge (tentative)

I know this is a lot but any and all advice/feedback is much appreciated, thanks for reading!

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 18, 2019 at 6:15 pm #20673

Vik;

Looks like a great schedule you’ve got laid out with some admirable goals. All of these will benefit from improving your ability to move faster for longer in the mountains. What does that mean for your training prescription? We have a saying here at UA: “You can never have too much base”. Keep piling on the basic aerobic work, supplemented with some higher intensity once you’ve boosted AeT to with in 10% of AnT. Keep up the general strength workouts too.

Start mixing in ME workouts now for your Shasta trip and then sprinkle those into the plan between trips. You’ll feel the difference in you speed in the mountains.

This long term progression of base building is exact what I do with the elite level athlete’s I coach. Then when they are within a couple of months of a major goal we focus in on the more even specific workouts.

Scott

[vik.waghray]

vik.waghray on April 21, 2019 at 7:38 pm #20835

Thanks for the response, Scott! If I’m understanding correctly, I should aim to keep up with the base and strength work while mixing in specific, progressive ME workouts as each objective gets closer. I’ll re-read the relevant UA articles for further details, as well.