Kimgivler:
Please read the articles on the site about Capacity Building Training vs Utilization Training and read: Why can’t I Just Climb to Train article. If you want to play and that play exceeds (especially when combined with the training plan) your current capacity then you’ll be taking money out of the Capacity bank account (Utilizing) instead of increasing your bank balance. The whole point of training is to increase your capacity for work in the several realms required by the sport you are training for. Ski touring and mountaineering for instance will utilize most of the same capacities so are very compatible when it comes to capacity building workouts. Athletes looking to maximize their capacity through the application of progressive training plan are looking for long term gains. Those that engage in frequent bouts of Utilization (exceeding their current work capacity) while trying to build that capacity will not succeed in increasing that capacity for work. Capacity building is analogous to the bank account. It take a lot of time and effort to build up a big balance in that account but once it is big it take very little to maintain it and with this huge account balance you can REALLY play and play hard at a level you have never dreamed of before. When that balance is huge like for an Ueli Steck, Steve House or Killian Jornet you can live like a king just off the interest. However, if every time you get a bit of capacity built up in the bank you go on a spending spree (like doing a mega play day that makes you really tired for several days) you will never get a big bank account and always be thwarted in the big dreams and accomplishments. You can have your cake or you can eat your cake but not both. The whole point of our book Training for the New Alpinism was to disabuse folks of the notion that they can do both at the same time. The most supremely talented athletes in the world train this way for a reason. We were trying to show that using these methods climbers can reach unheard of (for climbers) levels of fitness that allow them to do great things.
Good luck with implementing your plan,
Scott
