[MulletsUnited]

Hello,

I building a home bouldering wall and I am looking for suggestions on how to design it. I have ~12′ of height to work with and 12′ in width. I was contemplating having an 8′ wide section at about 23 deg and another 4′ section at a steeper slope. My main focus is mountain running/ skimo so I am NOT a 5.13 climber. Goal here is to build a better climbing base, which to me means more time spent on the wall.

For a home wall, do you all have suggestions for what works best? I understand there is a lot of personal opinion in this but that is what I am here to see!

Thanks!

Mullet

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 1, 2018 at 3:31 pm #9615

With that much space, I would build an articulating Moonboard and a Lattice Board.

Home walls get really stale pretty fast, and coming up with new problems is tough. The Moonboard is a set combination of holds, but the sequences are crowd-sourced. With the app, you plug in the grade you want to climb, and it will list a series of problems.

The Lattice Board is for very systemized training (i.e. effective).

[MulletsUnited]

MulletsUnited on May 2, 2018 at 12:12 pm #9621

Thanks for the input Scott! Our local bouldering gym has a moon board but I didn’t realize you can build them yourself. I will look more into that and see if we can make that happen.

Thanks for the advice!

Mullet

[Steve House]

Steve House on May 2, 2018 at 1:58 pm #9624

I have a moonboard and a treadwall and it’s a great combination. I would highly recommend a moonboard in that space. and using the rest of the floor space as a strength/core area. 12′ is enough height (I have 11’10”) to get the 40 degree angle and another angle, probably about 30 deg overhanging on the moonboard. I recommend you order at least 3 sets of holds (the original set is the hardest, so you might skip that set) and the LED lights are an absolute must.

Once you get into the app and have it set up I highly recommend sticking to ‘benchmark’ problems.

Building a home gym in my garage was the best thing I ever did for my health and my climbing.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 2, 2018 at 3:01 pm #9627

Steve: For your health? How so?

[Steve House]

Steve House on May 7, 2018 at 4:06 pm #9713

For my health in that I can walk 15 meters and be in a gym basically any time I want, 24/7. Without that I had to drive 10-15 min to the next town and use the public gym, which wasn’t always the best experience and did not include a climbing wall. I’m fitter and healthier because I’m more consistent and I credit that to the garage-gym. As you know, having a infant-toddler makes these things more difficult.