[george.peridas]

Following on from Scott’s excellent explanations about how to guesstimate TSS for workouts that involve a significant muscular strength/endurance component:

How do you count training hours

How do you count training hours

I am wondering what the right approach for a hangboard workout would be. It strikes me as localized stress in the fingers, forearms, lats, core etc. Certainly not whole-body stress, but also not negligible – you can feel it the next day. Would it affect your ability to run? Likely not. But it feels like it does require some recovery and when/if you are taxed from other training, I register it as an additional load.

So would assigning a TSS of 20-30 per hour be reasonable? Would Steve’s endurance hangboard routine score lower than Josh’s recruitment routine per hour?

Thanks in advance!

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on October 13, 2018 at 1:22 pm #13956

Bear in mind that TSS was deigned, and works quite well fo endurance training. But very poorly for strength training. I tend to count hang board workouts in the 20-30/hr regardless of the type. It is so localized and a small muscle group so has minimal global fatigue effect.

Base it on your time to recover.

Scott

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on October 13, 2018 at 5:29 pm #13959

Haha, I didn’t ask this question on the similar thread I started, as I noticed this thread! Would the time for the TSS of 20-30/h be just for the hang time, or the hang time plus rests?

[Steve House]

Steve House on October 16, 2018 at 2:17 pm #13994

TSS probably isn’t super useful in the case of hangboarding, but I do record it as 20-30 TSS because I’m a geek.

The more important thing with hangboard workout is (as with strength workouts) spacing the recovery. Meaning, making sure there is enough time between them for super-compensation to occur. For most people I think 2/week is about all that is reasonable assuming you’re also rock climbing (indoors our out) 1-2 days per week. I generally recommend 3 days between hangboard workouts and that’s how Josh Wharton has them spaced out in his rock climbing training plans as well.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on October 17, 2018 at 4:00 pm #14012

Cheers Steve, I am also a geek! I’ll probably choose a TSS of 25 on that basis. Are you using that figure per workout, or per hour?

Cheers,

A

[Steve House]

Steve House on October 23, 2018 at 10:50 am #14066

@alan_russell
per workout.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on October 23, 2018 at 1:16 pm #14071

Cool, thanks Steve. That may simplify my geekery!