[Vladimir]

Hi guys,

I just would like to give you a short feedback on my results with the 8-weeks TP from Steve House: “Steve House’s 8 Week Advanced Rock-Alpinist Training Plan”

To my person:
– Male
– 36 years
– 77 kg at beginning (73 at the end)
– Max HR: 195

Used equipment:
– The TP (Trainingsplan) 🙂
– Trainingpeaks.com with the premium account access. But I must admit I used it only as a diary..not as an analysis tool
– Suunto Ambit 3 Peak with HR belt

Trainings history – general physical conditions before start:
I am used to climbing. As I am doing it over 12 years (with interruptions) my sport climbing level is around 7a and my bouldering level is 7B. I had only problems with my shoulder, but this is known issue for me and no fault on the TP. No finger injuries. I try to train about two times a week bouldering or endurance climbing.

I was never the runner, so my personal best before start was running for 1h straight or over 7km. This was/is my big weakness.
But I am a good biker and ski mountaineer. Doing over 100.000m height in one season with both is common. Trips are around 1.200m to 1.600m. It is very rare I am going more then 1.600m. But it is possible to do this several days in a row without problems.

Goal:
What was my goal? I have planned a one week trip in the alps with a friend and to climb several mountains on this trip. We hadn’t any specific goals as it all depends on the weather. Goal was to be fit to approach several hours, to climb with a backpack and came safe down.

Training:
I have done a six weeks transition phase. This means I took the TP and reduced the amount and time of the single workouts. This phase started end of April and lasted till June. In June I startet my 8week TP. I followed it very strictly with two differences.
– As I was no real runner I reduced from Zone 2 running to high level Zone 1. My HR was then around 140
– Due to job and other topics I had to cancel 5 single workouts with no substitution.

What have I achieved:
Sunday: 13 pitch multi pitch route (6a) – 2.5h up, 4h climbing, 2h down
Monday: Hut (Boval Hut) approach with full backpack: 2h up, 5km, 600m
Tuesday: Piz Morteratsch, UP: 3:45h, 3,3km, 1350m – DOWN: 3h, 3,4km, 1250m
Wednesday: Piz Roseg: UP: 6:30h, 6km, 1600m – DOWN: 5:30h, 6km, 1600m
Thursday: Piz Bernina: as it was ridge total time: 11h, 5km, 1700m up, 600m down
Friday: Descent: 6,5h, 12km, 260m up, 2000m down
Saturday: easy hiking: 5h, 4km, 800m up and down.

Overall:
The single days were hard but ok. I was never on my absolute limit and still have reserves. Backpack was always over 10kg. Even my legs felt good. Only tired but no pain or similar. Especially after the downhill part I tend to get sore legs, but this was ok.

I can say. I think without this plan I wouldn’t be able to achieve all this and I am very thankful for this structured TP!!! Thank you. It helped me really a lot to push my limits.

This all is only a personal feedback and refers only to the fitness. Regarding you technical climbing level…you have to look where you come from. The TP doesn’t train any technical skills in rock and ice. So please stay safe and try to reflect by yourself how good you are and if you are capable of climbing your projects regarding difficulty.

Best regards
Vladimir

Topic

[Vladimir]

Vladimir on August 9, 2017 at 3:49 am #5832

Of course, if you have questions … feel free 🙂

[Steve House]

Steve House on August 9, 2017 at 4:12 pm #5834

Vladimir,
I’m happy that you were able to see such good results from your training plan. But YOU got the results which were a direct result of YOUR consistent and hard work. I only provided a roadmap. Congratulations on your climbs! Steve