[Bond]

Here in Washington we have a lot of long, relatively technically easy alpine ice routes, 45-60 degrees but hundreds or thousands of feet. Baker North Ridge, Kautz Glacier, Adams Glacier, a bunch of north faces, etc. I find that with trail running and other “typical” training it’s pretty straightforward to get the lungs and legs ready overall for these routes, but my weakpoint is always my calves. Staying on front points or in the highly flexed ankle position for hours is a stress that I don’t get too often in other training. Any thoughts on any sort of calf-specific training to incorporate in the weeks or months before trying something like the north face of Shuksan or Buckner?

Topic

[Dada]

Dada on November 13, 2020 at 2:42 pm #46815

Following.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on November 15, 2020 at 5:04 pm #46874

For calves I suggest starting with a max strength program using heel raises. To make them harder wear your stiff mtn boots. To make them maximally hard wear crampons and put the front points on a block of wood for heel raises. You can wear a pack to add resistance. After 6-8 weeks of Max strength move to an ME protocol just like that outlined in the ME progression. Multiple sets of 10 reps with gradually reducing rest.

Scott

[jakedev]

jakedev on November 16, 2020 at 1:30 am #46883

So to echo Scott 1 of my 4 exercises for MAX is toe Raises. 4 reps each side and do that with 115# sand bag now as part of a larger circuit.

This ME session I picked one up from a friend awhile ago and has been working a lot for me. Really simple and quick and can do anywhere.

Wear Ice boots and weight belt
2 slow toes raises over 5 seconds, then hold 10 seconds = 15 seconds
Repeat (no rest) x 4 = 1 minute total constant work

Rest 1 min

Repeat that 3-5 times. I do it with 20# belt on now but would slowly work up to that.