[nickbb10]

With the weather warming up and the rocks drying out, I am excited to invest some time into polishing up my rock climbing fitness. Over the last 5-6 wet, wintry months, I have been focused on my aerobic fitness, with the last few weeks averaging 12hrs of volume(90% sub AeT) per week, with a couple unstructured cragging days per week when the weather cooperated or forced me into the gym. I have found that with this kind of volume I simply do not have the energy to progress with hard rock climbing, 5.12 in my case, and with the weather being more consistent I am looking forward to getting strong on rock again. My question is how much volume should I aim for to maintain the majority of my aerobic fitness for summer alpine rock climbing? At this point I have no specific objective’s in mind, just looking to be a prepared as possible, from big walls to all day ridge scrambling.

As a post script, A year ago I posted asking for advise on recovering from a serious injury (https://uphillathlete.com/forums/topic/returning-to-training-after-breaking-leg-badly/)
so I happy to say things are finally starting to get back to normal, and I have even gained on my previous fitness!
Thanks, Nick

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 2, 2018 at 6:59 pm #9049

Nick:

Glad you are healthy and back at it again. Once you have established a certain physical capacity you can maintain it for weeks with much less training stimulus. Keep one longer workout each week. As long as your current long ones or close. Plus 2 shorter aerobic workouts. This will maintain that base for several weeks with minimal drop and when it does drop it will come back fast once you up the training volume again.

I hope this helps.
Scott

[nickbb10]

nickbb10 on April 5, 2018 at 9:53 pm #9136

thanks for the reply Scott, that should fit in nicely around climbing days.