[didier.laurent.perso]

Hi !
Thank for your website and advises particularly in “Training for the new alpinisme” book that help me a lot.
I am currently finalizing a training plan for an event that has been delayed due to “COVID19”.
I estimate I’ll be on peak form by mid-June (I am using TrainingPeaks and my current CTL is around 90).
I have planned an alpinisme major route in September (north face of les Grande Jorasses).
That leaves me only 8 to 10 weeks to improuve my physical training (assuming that I have technical skills required).
What can you advise me as a training cycle (Base period, strength, ME) ?

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 29, 2020 at 9:33 am #42193

That’s hard to answer on so little information.

What are your weaknesses? When do you feel the most physically challenged?

Also, if you’re not sure if you have the technical skills, I would work on getting them ASAP. The better your technical skills, the less fitness you need (or the faster your fitness will allow you to go). Technical skills are also much less perishable than fitness, so it’s always a good investment.

[didier.laurent.perso]

didier.laurent.perso on May 30, 2020 at 12:35 pm #42213

Thank you Scott for your message,

I do agree for that technical skills is the priority and that could reduce the physical demand.
I will continue to improve them during this period with specific workouts.
Juste to give you some more details, my main weaknesses are lock off and grip that are obviously important for mixed and ice climbing.
But do you think it’s appropriate to proceed after a short transition period, with 4 weeks of max strength and 4 weeks on ME or do you have another advise for a such short period of time ?
Of course I’ll maintain aerobic training with long zone 1 and/or zone 2 run …

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on May 31, 2020 at 11:55 am #42234

Max work is never a bad idea.

For ME, as long as the high-intensity minutes don’t exceed 5% of total training time, then you should be fine.