I would look to coaches for this information, not science. When it comes to developing the best practices for training methods coaches lead the way. Coaches have spent years and years dealing with hundreds if not thousands of athletes on a daily basis and doing so in the world’s best laboratory…..competition. The competition arena is the best place to decide what works and what does not work. The good ideas are adopted by other coaches the bad ideas are either rejected or modified.
No scientific study can be as long term or with so many well trained athletes. Sports science can inform us as to why these best practices do what they do but it is much likely to arrive at the best practices.
As for the work/rest ratio I will just comment in general that the higher the intensity the longer the longer the rest must be.
I have asked our climbing coach Dave Thompson to weigh in on the the methods he find more useful.