Hi Eustache–thanks for sharing that. It’s great to read about somebody’s approach, thought process, and evolving conclusions. What I found most interesting was your last paragraph:
“Modern alpinists probably need to be fit and flexible for extended periods to make the most of the changing environment. My ambition for the following years is to manage to train for such a state and be able to grab good conditions whenever they fancy to appear. I don’t know if that goal can be fulfilled by laying out and following a training plan resembling the one I had this year, but for sure structured training and understanding of training science would help.”
I generally feel the same way. It’s so hard to line up weather + conditions + partners + available time … and to make all that match a planned peak for the year. I think it’s perhaps more realistic for most of us to shoot for being in good general shape for longer periods…for example, for a month or two, and then try to accomplish what we can, remaining open to different climbs, and different kinds of climbs, in different places, as much as possible. That is sure to be more fulfilling that becoming frustrated by being continually thwarted in the pursuit of specific objectives. In my case, I found that in some ways I have climbed more, and enjoyed climbing more, once I let go of those “dream” or “goal” climbs…and let the objectives just come naturally. Then again you have to balance that with the vision and commitment to make big goals happen…it’s an endless circle, a continuous cycle.
Anyway, like I said, thanks for sharing.