Endurance Hangboard Routine

Creator

Topic
August 30, 2019 at 12:50 pm #27582

Anonymous
Inactive

Regarding how to move through the endurance hangboard routine — is the correct method to:
Option 1:
Hang on grip A, rest 60s;
hang on grip B, rest 60s;
hang on grip C, rest 60s;
then (option 1a): repeat this process for 10min which will only take me to the 4-Minute mark on the sheet, or (option 1b): spend 30+ minutes doing the entire routine in order to have a full 10 minutes of hang/rest time per hold size?

Or, Option 2:
Repeat the hang/rest reps on grip A ten times, then; move to grip B x10 reps; move to grip C x10 reps (and then would it be 2a: 10mins workout total; or 2b: over 30 mins workout total)?

Thanks,

Scott
Creator

Topic

Posted In: Climbing

Keymaster

Steve House on August 30, 2019 at 4:19 pm #27594

Scott-
Option 1. and the time/number of reps is going to depend on you. I recommend starting on larger holds and doing the routine more times to get to a full clean 10 min of hang time. From that baseline you can go to smaller holds or reduce the rest time or some combination of the two.

Inactive

Anonymous on August 30, 2019 at 4:24 pm #27597

Thanks Steve. “…a full clean 10 min of hang time.” — do you mean a full 10 mins per grip size (total workout time >30min), or 10 mins total workout time?

Inactive

Anonymous on August 30, 2019 at 4:42 pm #27598

Just to clarify, is your question related to this hangboard workout?

Inactive

Anonymous on August 30, 2019 at 5:05 pm #27599

Yes, that’s the one. Sorry if I’m not getting something obvious, or wording myself poorly. The way I read the chart is 3 grip sizes and 10 minutes. I’m wondering if one workout is meant to be comprised of spending an accumulated 10 minutes of hanging ~20 seconds + resting 60 seconds for each grip size (which would add up to over 30 minutes of hanging/resting for the whole workout) or if the 10 minutes is meant to be the total accumulated length of the workout (i.e. run a timer for 10 minutes and move through hanging/resting on each grip, stopping once 10 minutes is reached)?

Participant

vik.waghray on September 25, 2019 at 11:41 am #29037

I’d also like to know the intended protocol for this hangboard routine.. so far I’ve interpreted it as doing a hang, then resting for a full minute, and repeating that 10 times (if following the 10-minute structure provided). I didn’t consider the possibility that it might involve accumulating 10 minutes of hang time for each hold, but now I’m wondering if that’s actually the way the routine is supposed to be done?

Inactive

Anonymous on November 15, 2019 at 3:42 am #32022

I would like to know this as well

Inactive

Anonymous on November 26, 2019 at 8:29 am #32716

Sorry for the delay on this! This one fell through the cracks…

I’ll get Steve to confirm, but this is how I read the prescription:

MINUTE HOLD DURATION
1 A (Large) 20″
2 B (Medium) “80% of failure”
3 C (Small) “80% of failure”
4 B (Medium) “80% of failure”
5 REST 60″
6 C (Small) “80% of failure”
7 B (Medium) “80% of failure”
8 C (Small) “80% of failure”
9 B (Medium) “80% of failure”
10 A (Large) To first shake*

* “To first shake” is as long as you can until you start to shake.

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Endurance Hangboard Routine