Down Jacket for Denali

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December 4, 2021 at 4:27 am #60240

mattmay3s
Participant

Looking for yet another down jacket 🙂 Are these any good for something like Denali?

Eddie Bauer First Ascent Peak XV Stormdown 800 Goose Down Expedition Jacket
Creator

Topic

Posted In: PRIVATE Mountaineering Training Group

Participant

Brian Giangardella on December 5, 2021 at 1:25 pm #60281

These would be my top 5 choices for Parka’s for Denali.

1. Patagonia Grade VII
2. Arc’teryx Alpha Parka
3. Montane Alpine 850
4. TNF Summit L6 Cloud Down
5. Marmot West Rib Parka

The EB most certainly fits the bill for Denali but it’s also over a 1000 Grams. The Montane is probably the best value but not as accessible as the others. There are also a few others but these would be my picks. The WM Snojack is also very nice but pricey like the Patagonia and Arc’teryx that’s why I omitted from my list. Mark did a video on Denali gear last year and it’s fantastic. If you haven’t checked it out you should.

Participant

mattmay3s on December 6, 2021 at 12:29 am #60299

Thanks Brian – very useful. I’ve watched the video

I’ve got a Rab Neutrino https://rab.equipment/uk/neutrino-pro-jacket but felt cold during a storm on Elbrus so feel the need to upgrade for Denali

I try and buy used/second-hand where I can so will keep an eye out for one of those models coming up on Ebay etc

Moderator

MarkPostle on December 8, 2021 at 1:21 pm #60459

Matt- I could be wrong but my memory of the Rab neutrino is that it is a sewn through construction and not baffled. I have always felt “cold” when using sewn through jackets in arctic environs.

Participant

Nate Emerson on December 8, 2021 at 2:17 pm #60464

I second that. The Neutrino is a great jacket and I’ve used it on Denali. But I prefer it more for really cold mid-winter ski touring. It’s best attributes are packability and value. I’ve used the Positron on Denali and Vinson. I’d recommend the Positron over the Neutrino – the zone baffled construction makes a difference. It looks like the Positron Pro is similar to the original.
There are many great products out there. Mark’s video explains the criteria to help with your pick.

Participant

mattmay3s on December 9, 2021 at 12:34 am #60498

Thanks guys – definitely feeling the cold more as I age. Got half a mind on suitability for G2 and Broad Peak in 2023. Ever growing kit store is getting some comments from Mrs M now 🙂

Participant

Edgar Carby on December 9, 2021 at 6:14 am #60518

Guys, any thoughts on the Arcteryx Ceres for Denali? I’ll be there mid June.

Moderator

MarkPostle on December 9, 2021 at 1:31 pm #60546

I think the Ceres parka would do fine mid June as part of a well thought through clothing system. The synthetic/down hybrid insulation parkas always give up a bit in weight and pack ability but make sense for other (moisture) reasons

Participant

Edgar Carby on December 10, 2021 at 9:08 am #60582

@mark @nate

Layers on top outside to in –

Ceres
Beta AR
Proton and/or Cerium
Fortrez Hoody
Merino Base

Moderator

MarkPostle on December 14, 2021 at 4:12 pm #60808

Some great layers there. I would probably bring all 6 of those unless you know you run warm.

Participant

Edgar Carby on December 15, 2021 at 8:23 am #60830

What do you guys think about the puffy knickers? Are puffy pants necessary?

On the bottom, I’ll have (outside to in), Beta AR pants, ArcTeryx softshell pants (I can’t think of the name, it’s not the Gamma), merino base.

On my feet, Scarpa 6000 plus 40 below over-boots (for the summit).

I personally run somewhere between warm and sweaty mess.

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Down Jacket for Denali