I’m currently in the strength phase of the intermediate rock plan, and while I’ve managed to figure out an at-home solution to the hangboard repeater workouts I’m not so sure how to best mimick the physical demands of the following types of sessions while stuck at home with pretty basic equipment (i.e. metolius rock rings, pinch block, kettlebells, resistance bands, pullup bar): limit bouldering, outdoor mileage days, and power endurance. Here are some of my ideas, which I’d love to get some feedback on:

For limit bouldering, I figured a reasonable equivalent would be to do the max hangboard workout from Josh’s plan along with max strength consisting of 4-6 sets each of weighted pullups, goblet squats, TGU, and/or some other climbing-specific exercises.

For outdoor mileage days, I was thinking of doing an ARC-style extended hangboard workout, similar to what Scott Semple mentioned in the “Continuous Climbing At Home” forum thread, with an emphasis on working the forearms and not straining the fingers too much at all. On top of that, I was thinking of doing a solid core workout, and perhaps some Aussie-style pullups and shoulder/single-leg exercises.

Lastly, for power endurance I was thinking of just doing another phase of hangboard repeater workouts with a little bit more intensity, and doing 4-6 sets of frenchies to improve power endurance in the pulling muscles. The only thing I’m wary of is that, in Josh’s plan, these workouts are sometimes combined in the same day with an AM limit bouldering workout (which, in these circumstances, would be a max hang workout), so I’d have to be extremely careful not to over-stress my fingers. Although, I suppose this would be a concern even if I was doing these workouts on the bouldering wall anyway.

This post became a bit long, but I very much appreciate anybody who reads this through and takes the time to respond. Despite the less-than-ideal circumstances with respect to training and climbing, I’m determined to make the most of this time and come out stronger.