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Jo

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Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

Posted In: Training, Oxygen Systems, and Hypoxic Tents

  • Participant
    Jo on February 15, 2022 at 1:52 pm · in reply to: Bouldering for Climbing Training #63361

    I’m not an expert but I’ve been climbing regularly for 4ish years and started bouldering about 3 years ago…I’m a huge fan, I think it has helped my technique immensely in a way that I haven’t found climbing on the ropes, especially indoors.

    Sure it’s great for strength, but if you are challenging yourself bouldering will force you to break down into fine detail movements and body positions, and be more creative with how you move – this is how I think it’s been hugely beneficial to me, especially as someone who is newer to climbing and doing moderate grades.

    It will also help with your overhang technique/confidence if you do some steep boulders, which will help a ton as you progress your grades. I find I’m sometimes too pumped roped up on the wall to think much about my technique. If you practice this bouldering better technique will start to come naturally.

    I wasn’t able to do any of the boulders on my gym’s (steep) bouldering wall when I started but I persisted and am seeing huge benefits now…It won’t help your headspace with lead climbing so much, or your aerobic capacity(if that’s the right word), but it will make you move better and help with technique and strength.

    If I were you I’d go crazy autobelaying 4-6h a week and would definitely mix in at least one solid bouldering session during the week, or more depending on how intense/long they are.

    Just saw this realize this is a super late response!

    Participant
    Jo on July 30, 2021 at 7:28 am · in reply to: Training during bad forest fire season #56066

    Thank you that is helpful! I get the sense we don’t totally know what’s ok and what’s not, and probably don’t know all the long term effects.

    I have heard some areas within an hour or so drive are not as bad depending on the day, but it’s hard to commit to that not knowing…Unfortunately I feel like Canada is a bit behind the times with measuring air quality in a quantifiable way outside of more major cities.

    For now I’m basically just slowing down on my runs as for intuitively breathing shallower seems like it makes sense…and might take a chance and drive a bit further for a long run to see if I luck out with the smoke.

    If the UA team ever feels like doing an article like this I know lots of people I have talked to are interested in this topic and everyone’s opinion seems to be different! Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it 🙂

    Participant
    Jo on July 27, 2021 at 12:24 pm · in reply to: Training during bad forest fire season #55999

    Thank you for the tips. Unfortunately I don’t have a subscription for the NYT so can’t seem to access the article…

    Participant
    Jo on July 25, 2021 at 10:08 am · in reply to: Training during bad forest fire season #55949

    Hi Mark
    Thanks for sharing your experience! Smoke is unfortunately becoming a regular summer theme here too, it’s like having a fifth (and very unpleasant) season 🙁

    A few years ago there was definitely a pattern where the mornings were a bit hazy and the smoke got progressively worse throughout the day, I think as the fires (nearby) picked up. This year there doesn’t seem to be a pattern.

    There is an Air Quality Health Index in Canada but there is no sensor in my town. There’s also a radar website (Firesmoke.ca) that I use though so far I haven’t found it super helpful for planning.

    Would love to know how to modify a plan when smoke is consistently bad, and what workouts are ok/not ok to do…

    Participant
    Jo on October 2, 2019 at 11:15 am · in reply to: Deployment #29324

    Great thanks for the advice!

    Participant
    Jo on September 28, 2019 at 10:01 pm · in reply to: Deployment #29181

    Thanks for the question and reply!

    Are there any good methods to maintain endurance when you only have access to a gym (i.e. with free weights etc) and hangboard? I have done barbell finger rolls in the past with low weight/high reps and so far that’s the only thing that mimics the forearm pump that I get climbing…

    Also-not sure if it’s just my computer but the link to the pull up article didn’t work for me.

    I am spending a lot of time this winter working in places without a climbing gym, but easy access to a full gym and I purchased a portable hangboard, so this question and the reply are super helpful. Thanks again!

    Participant
    Jo on July 4, 2019 at 8:36 pm · in reply to: Zone 4 Workout Question #24474

    I have a Garmin watch…I will totally look into this. Might help me from falling flat onto my face because I’m too busy looking at my watch next time I’m doing 30-30s 😉 Thanks!

    Participant
    Jo on July 2, 2019 at 10:00 pm · in reply to: Zone 4 Workout Question #24401

    Great thanks for the advice. Tried the 30-30s today and aside from tripping a few times because I was looking at my watch so much and losing track of where I was at with the time occasionally it was ok. I definitely got a bit better sense for when I needed to speed up/slow down by the second set. Looking at Training Peaks graph afterwards I think it took a bit more time for my HR to come down after I slowed my pace towards the end of the last set which makes sense and is something I can account for in the future.

    Thanks again!

    Participant
    Jo on June 6, 2019 at 11:42 am · in reply to: How much core training is too much? #23063

    Hi LeftEdge

    I also have an erratic schedule and spend a ton of time in hotels working. I bought a portable TRX that I can been hooked across a door. Doesn’t allow all the same things a regular TRX would as the door gets in the way of some things but I’ve gotten good use out of it esp for core workouts and inclined pull ups etc.

    I also resorted to bringing a 10lb kettle bell with me on my last trip. Have pondered using water bottles in a backpack to add resistance as well.

    And lastly running is the one thing I’ve found I can take with me pretty much anywhere, which I’m sure you know.

    Not sure if this helps but thought I’d share as I also face the same issue with work getting in the way of my fitness goals!

    Participant
    Jo on May 23, 2019 at 11:04 pm · in reply to: Effect of Anemia on AeT/AnT #22432

    Great, that’s helpful. Thanks for the input.

    My ferritin was ~70 earlier this year and my hemoglobin was around 130-140 (13-14 US)…it’s good to know that a ferritin <50 would be considered ‘low’ for endurance training as this is definitely not what we are taught in medicine – we would consider levels <30 for women low.

    Would definitely recommend to others females (and even more so if they are vegetarian) to consider asking their physician to check their hemoglobin and ferritin periodically as it is crazy how insidiously anemia/iron deficiency can come on and how easy it is to brush off the symptoms.

    Thanks again!

Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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