Which training plan for me?

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  • #14001


    I’ve been rock climbing for quite some time but increasingly getting into more winter climbing/mountaineering. I’m planning on climbing two (AD/PD+) 4000m peaks in the Swiss alps, as well as a few classic routes in Chamonix, then in Norway to climb a few multi-pitch rock routes with long approaches. The plan is to do this next Euro summer.

    The last 12 months I’ve done about 260 hours of running/cycling and strength train 3 times a week as well as climbing.

    I would like to make my training a bit more focused. Although my objectives are relativiely modest so far, I’d like to use the time to “train to train” to get used to more focused training for harder mountain objectives.

    With that in mind which training plan would be right for me?


Posted In: Mountaineering

  • Inactive
    Anonymous on #14005


    Which plan you select depends on what your goals are and what you feel you need most to improve. If you desire to be come aerobically more fit so you can do longer days and bigger climbs in the mountains then a plan like our 24 week expedition plan will be best. If you want to focus on ice and mixed climbing we have plan for that. Same for rock or alpine climbing. Only you know what your goals are but I hope this helps.


    jimmyharris on #14036

    A vote for the 24 week expedition plan from me.

    I find 6 months is a good amount of time for a training program and it gives you a reasonable amount of training in each training period. It’s generally two strength sessions per week, 2 or 3 runs per week and then 2 or 3 run/hikes as well (6 sessions per week in total).

    Thanks to Steve and Scott for their great work on both the book and the training plans. I’m a (relatively serious) hiker rather than a climber and the expedition program has been perfect for me to prepare for 7-10 days off-track hikes in the Tasmanian mountains.

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