Training Well While Avoiding Barring Injuries

  • Creator
  • #19739


    I’ve been training for the West Buttress on Denali for the past few months, and still have two months left until day one of the climb. I have noticed gradual improvements in aerobics and strength endurance, which bodes well for the climb. My concern comes with respect to tendons, ligaments and all sorts of connective bits of the lower half of the body.
    Some level of discomfort and soreness is, of course, expected during training, but every so often I will encounter a sensation that could be a potential injury which would be categorized as a common overuse injury. At the moment, I have symptoms similar to those of a plantar fasciitis–pain between heel and middle of sole, most noticeable after rest. Other minor pains have come and gone, so I’m not sure if this will follow that pattern or lead to a more intense injury down the road.
    I’ve been working with “Training For the New Alpinism” and have tried thus far to be judicial when deciding where the line is between over and under training, but non-muscular pains are quite hard to decide on. Is there general advice for dealing with sensations that could lead to barring injuries, or should particularly suspicious ones always be examined by an experienced exercise physician? I want to be able to not deviate from a consistent regimen, at least very least for aerobic days, but still take proper care of all parts of the system.

    Thanks in advance,

Posted In: Injury & Rehab

  • Participant
    Pete Dickinson MS,PT on #19740

    Thanks for reaching out. Tendon and joint pain I would consider on the more concerning side of the ‘injury scale’ compared to muscular pain. The course of treatment tends to be longer. Your progression, and content, of training sets you up for success or failure. A coach can be a huge help in getting the right mix and ramp of training for your project, just saying. Plantar fascia pain needs to be treated locally, and with other causes in mind. Depending on your presentation, I might recommend spine care, hip strengthening, fascial mobility around the foot and medial calf,you get the idea. I would definitely address it with a major project in two months. Resources are 1. A TFTNA coach 2. Local Physical Therapist (a physician won’t really treat this) 3. Chat with Pete.

    Stuart on #19796

    It’s always best to be proactive and attack ‘aches and pains’ when they are little and still just ‘aches and pains’

    As Pete recommended an eval by a physical therapist would be ideal and in the meantime starting to do some basic preventative care. Rolling your foot on a lacrosse ball,ankle mobility exercises, big toe mobility. Evaluating the quality of your footwear to see if it needs to be replaced. Possible need for insoles. Those all things to look into/work on. In addition to things that Pete suggested.

    Research foot exercises to strengthen the intrinsic muscles of the feet such as the ‘short foot’ exercises, our some good things to do as well.

    Lastly, if it starts to get worse you may need to modify your training in someway to keep it from getting worse and derailing your trip. A good therapist that doesn’t just advise rest in all cases can help with this.

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