Training Plan Recommendations?

  • Creator
  • #71509

    I’m an experienced climber with a long training history thinking of switching to one of the Uphill Athlete training plans for the first time. I’m a long term user of the Anderson brothers’/Rock Prodigy plans, and am looking for a plan that I can cycle through for nearly year-round training. My goals are long, technical alpine rock routes–eg, 5.11 multipitch and above in RMNP, the Winds, etc.

    I am wondering if anyone with similar training goals has a suggestion on which training plan might be the best fit? From what I can gather from the descriptions, I am leaning towards the 8 week advanced rock alpinist plan but it seems far too short. Has anyone else used this successfully as a longer term training plan? The 16 week Eiger version sounds like it may have more of a focus on ice climbing than I am looking for.

    Any experiences you can share would be appreciated!

Posted In: Alpinism

  • Participant
    psathyrella on #74346

    I’m not really familiar with the various premade UA plans, but I’ve tried lots of different approaches to integrating the Anderson brothers’ training with TFTNA style training, so maybe still useful?

    The first thing I plan around is hypertrophy hangboarding (repeater) phases: I’ve found them to be by far the most important/irreplaceable part of improving at rock climbing, but they’re also so utterly exhausting if done right (mentally/neurologically as well as finger/upper body wise) that I really can’t do much else during the month I’m in a repeater phase. Every other phase in the Rock Prodigy method you can either replace with some kind of climbing (limit bouldering for power, etc) or else it doesn’t limit what else you do (power/recruitment training doesn’t exhaust you, and isn’t very time consuming). To be clear, sure I can go for easy runs, maybe do some core/pullup training during a repeater phase, but if I try to actually make real progress on those other activities, it inevitably screws up the repeaters and I make progress on neither.

    So really it’s a matter of deciding which months I’m willing to forgo any actual climbing to do month-long repeater phases (I often pick August since it’s too hot to enjoy climbing anyway, and Nov/Dec since there’s often a bit of a gap there between rock and ice season). Outside of those months, I can be doing anything really in terms of TFTNA style training plans. For instance, if I’ve just finished a repeater phase I could start a lower body aerobic base phase without compromising on the Rock Prodigy style power and power endurance phases (e.g campus/boulder right before going for a long run).

    Honestly if you’re used to the Rock Prodigy method, it might make more sense to use a UA trail running plan, and just figure out how to work that around your RP plan — if you use a UA rock plan, trying to choose whether to pay attention to RP or UA finger training might just be hard, and in the big picture they’re pretty similar. I think the main difference is UA mostly only recommends max hangs (recruitment) rather than repeaters (hypertrophy), which is really not optimal for long term progression anyway.

    Jane Mackay on #74363

    I am not a climber, but I can say that if you do go with one of the running or mountaineering plans, you can extend them by extending the base period.

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