Timing of Phases in Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing

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  • #15513


    Thanks to Steve House for the very useful article “Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing”.

    I understand the need for 3 phases but I am not sure how the timing of each phase should work when applied to an 8-week period. The intro to phase 1 states that it should last for at least the first 8 weeks of training, phase 2 for 4 weeks, and phase 3 for another 8 weeks. This seems to correspond to a 20 to 24 weeks of total training.

    In the case of 8 weeks of total training, would the phase split look something like:

    Phase 1: 4 weeks
    Phase 2: 2 weeks
    Phase 3: 2 weeks

    or does it make sense to allocate differently for a shorter total training time?

    Thanks for your help!


Posted In: Climbing

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    Anonymous on #15520


    Eight weeks is a pretty compressed time frame to make real gains using the periodized approach we advocate. If you have a high level of general strength and conditioning then I would shorten P1 to 2 weeks, drop P2 and extend P3 to 6 weeks. If you are deficient in strength then this approach will not work very well and you need to add more P2. Keep in mind that doing only 2 weeks of the ME in P3 will not do much to improve your muscular endurance, honestly.


    gfilip on #15532

    Hi Scott,

    Eight weeks does seem like not a long time. What prompted my question is the statement from Steve in the article that he recommends people to train for at least eight weeks. I hope to make the training period longer than that but wanted to see how the phases should be divided up if not training for the full 24 weeks or so. Your answer is very helpful in doing that, thanks.


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