Strength Training for Ama Dablam

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  • #22168


    I’m planning a climb of Ama Dablam in 2020. I’m not too sure of the entire route up but I know there’s the yellow tower (5c grade?) rock climb crux and a few other mixed sections followed by steep ice to the summit.

    I read in TfTNA that we can choose 2-4 specific exercises from general strength training for max strength, and then switch up several varieties for muscular endurance. I’m confused on which exercises would work best for a trip up Ama Dablam, as they all seem necessary but I can’t realistically expect to do them all.

    Do you have any advice on which strength exercises would suit a climb of Ama Dablam best? Background: I live in a country as flat as a pancake, so no ME hill exercises for me unfortunately 🙁

Posted In: Mountaineering

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    Anonymous on #22286

    If you are climbing the standard route on Ama Dablam you will probably be using ascenders on fixed ropes and not need to actually climb 5c. Pull ups should definitely be in your program. Same thing for box step ups. Those could be your two main strength exercises along with some core work.

    You can use the ME strength training progression explained in this article. It works for those without mountains to train on.


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