Starting TftNA (and climbing trip in 16 weeks)

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  • #7552

    Last year I had around 400 training hours with around 40% dedicated to climbing indoors (as this is something new to me and I want to improve) and other 60% were different aerobic activities, mostly running and hiking.
    My long term objective is to prepare for technical Alpine climbing.
    Unfortunately I got my hands on your amazing book just <16 weeks before my dedicated rock climbing training week. I’m wondering now what would be the best strategy to use to start the new training program?
    If I skip the Transition Period, then my climbing week could be week 15th in Base Period (overload week).
    If I go into Transition Period now, I have to miss considerable volume of climbing because I can’t fit it all in 4 – 5 hours in a week.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

  • Inactive
    Anonymous on #7570


    If your upcoming goal is rock climbing based and you feel you skills/strength for this are questionable then by all means follow a good rock climbing training progression and add in some aerobic training as supplement. With your long term goal of bigger alpine routes technical proficiency is key so you do need to develop that aspect. For people trying to improve in the technical/skills area as well as develop an aerobic base for bigger mountain projects/longer climbs etc we normally recommend do this in block where you prioritize with the basic aerobic conditioning or prioritize the technical while de-emphasizing the other during the block. You can’t maximize both of these qualities at the same time so don’t even try. Alternate them and they will both improve quicker this way.

    Do not get locked into the week by week plans in the book. They are meant as guideline not a road map. There is not way to prescribe what you need to be doing 15 weeks from now. The intention is to show you how training works, give some tools so you can build a plan but also the knowledge to adjust it as you move along.


    sandijs on #7578


    Thank you for taking the time to answer my and other questions!


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