Q on Ice Tool Max Hang workout in Eiger program

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  • #38046


    I am in week 5 in the Eiger North Face training program designed by Steve. I’m about to switch from “Additional Ice Climbing Workout” to “Ice Tool Max Hangs”. I can already hang from one arm for 10″ (although so far I have been using 15″ rest between hangs rather than the prescribed 10″ to give a better shake). However the max hang description says I should hang from both arms with weights. I haven’t tried it yet (not until next Tuesday), but I suspect that I’ll need to add a lot of weight to achieve the max strength training effect. I wonder if I should stick with single arm hangs with smaller weight increments from set to set.


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    Anonymous on #38223

    Always use two tools for max hangs. A single tool is too dangerous for the shoulders. You couldn’t maintain active shoulders with one tool and a heavy load, not reliably anyway.

    If using two tools is too easy, choke up above the pommel and just grip the shaft of the tool or use a straight mountaineering axe.

    changpeng on #38391

    Thank you Scott! I’ll try using straight axes.

    pwilk on #63098

    I think the description for the Max Ice Tool Hangs in this plan was copied from one of the rock workouts for a fingerboard, hence the “Many climbers will likely need to subtract weight” wording. I would think most ice climbers doing the 16 week Eiger plan will need to start in the neighborhood of +50 lb.

    The +/- 5 lb increments are also a bit fine while you’re dialing in the weight. I did start at +0 lb and I spent 5-6 workouts trying to find the right weight. I switched to +10 lb increment after 2 workouts because it was clear the starting point and the +5 lb increment were too low. I weigh typically 155-160 lb and found the “Additional Ice Climbing workout” which precede the “Max Ice Tool Hangs” to be far more difficult to complete.

    I would also agree with gripping the shaft rather than the handle to increase difficulty.

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