[rsjwong14]

Can I train endurance and power at the same time? (I don’t mean in the same session). My goals for this season are mainly focused towards sport climbing but i don’t want to regress to much in bouldering. As of right now, I am training my max hangs weighted hangs for 10sec once or twice a week and going sport climbing on the weekends. After this month of training is complete, I plan to only sport climb until it gets too hot and either start bouldering again or start training indoors for the fall temps. Are there any red flags that you see in this plan?

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on March 18, 2019 at 7:04 pm #18605

Power for bouldering will come back super fast, and you’ll probably be lighter with stronger finger tendons and core muscles after some sport climbing. I have a friend who didn’t climb at all for six months due to a split shoulder and she quickly worked her way to being stronger than prior to injury in like 2-3 months, she sent an indoor v6 a few weeks ago and had never done that. Read Steve’s blog article about myelination, a big chunk of strength comes from the brain and you never really lose that.

I really love bouldering and resort snowboarding, and in may I’m going to ditch both these activities (gonna splitboard a bunch next winter for sure though) to get serious about alpine trad climbing. I am confident that chasing grades will be much easier after a bunch of big hikes and easier multipitches the day I feel like sportier climbing will bring me more satisfaction upon success.

Also, you might want to consider forums like reddit’s climbharder for sport climbing, as well as sources of training information that pertain more to shorter duration effort. When people on this forum climb it’s usually after crossing a bergschrund or for several hours. Going from v6 to 5.12 on bolts you wont have the same training needs as someone who wants to climb cracks in alpine environments.

[Steve House]

Steve House on March 19, 2019 at 9:36 am #18622

@rswong14
I don’t see any red flags with this plan. In fact I think it sounds like a good plan to add in one day of bouldering per week at the end of this month. Keep those max hang sessions to 2x/week right now if at all possible add in one–or if you can recover enough–two ‘arc training’ sessions per week. Your weekend climbing will suffer, temporarily. But in the long run more arc training sessions per week (3-4) right now will pay off later. At the end of that period start with 1x/week of bouldering. Start with something like the 4×4. 4x up the same problem that is close to the limit of what you can flash (after the warm up of course). and one 1x/week of ‘limit bouldering’ or trying hard. After a min of 4 weeks of that switch to 2x/week of limit bouldering. One of the keys is to quit once your performance peaks. Don’t keep flogging the problems after you’re tired. These sessions might not be that long, but they will be effective. Hope that helps.
Steve

[hellojenrau]

hellojenrau on December 12, 2019 at 11:32 am #34238

Can someone send to a link to the blog post on myelination? I couldn’t find it.

[Steve House]

Steve House on December 17, 2019 at 7:32 am #34537

@hellojenrau

How Myelination Can Make You a Better Athlete