Ice and Mixed Climbing 8 week plan question

  • Creator
  • #3356

    Here is a great question we just received for a climber who purchased our 8 week Ice/mixed strength training plan. The names have been changed to protect the innocent.


    I recently purchased and started the ‘Ice and Mixed Climbing Strength 8 weeks’ plan. I am finding the workouts very easy. What gives and how do I best use this plan.
    Can you please help/advise?


    Thanks for contacting us and for buying the Ice and Mixed climbing plan.

    As you can imagine, especially if you have read our book, Training for the New Alpinism, no stock or generic plan can fit every person’s, individual training status perfectly. To produce a plan like this one we have first and foremost to not injury any user. This is particularly important with only 8 weeks of progression and for a plan intended for beginners to use effectively. As such the plan must start very gradually to assure that basic strength is at an adequate level before beginning more specific strength work.

    From the sounds of it you already have good level of basic strength. This leaves you with 2 options: One add resistance to the basic exercises prescribed. The second is that you can progress to the specific strength progression that begins in week 4. If you choose this option then you can continue the progression the specific workouts in the same manner as the are laid out in the plan.

    As we go to great lengths to explain in TftNA book, there is no one size fits all or cook book approach to training prescription. That is why we also go to some trouble to explain the theory behind training methodologies. With a working knowledge of those basic principles one can extrapolate and adjust something like this plan to best fit his or her needs.

    Without knowing you I can’t make an exact recommendation as to how to proceed but in 90% of cases I would always suggest to increase base strength first before moving to specific strength.

    I hope this helps.

Posted In: Climbing

  • Participant
    alnajima on #3644

    Dear Scott/Steve,

    I’ll be starting the 8-week ice/mixed plan next week as the holidays start. However, I won’t have access to any indoor/outdoor climbing facilities for the first three weeks of training. I realize this is less than ideal — how do you recommend best using the “climbing” portions of the plan during this period?



    Anonymous on #3645


    If you do not have any access to climbing in the first weeks of this plan you can just follow the strength workouts as laid out and then transition to climbing as soon as you have access again. It will not have much an effect so don’t worry about it and just do what you can.

    Good Luck,

    alnajima on #3800

    I’m currently on week 2 of the mixed plan, and the two upcoming sessions are consecutive (General Strength wk2 Sunday, General strength wk3 Monday). This is the only time with consecutive training days on the schedule. Is this an error, or is it intended?

    Anonymous on #3827


    Good catch. This was a type on some of the plans. Move that Monday workout to Tuesday in week 3. IN general we alternate 3 strength workouts one week and 2 the next week through this plan.

    Thanks for asking.I have corrected this error in the plan so you can simply delete the plan you have downloaded and download a new one. You own these plans forever so can come back to repeat the plan anytime you like.


    DanielJ on #5964

    Hi Scott

    I’m a fairly experienced ice climber (usually climb long routes WI5/5+ by the end of seasons). I’ve never really trained for ice and basically stopped rock climbing so very much plateaued. Im 6.1 and at 215 so besides the obvious weight loss needed I’m wondering about buying your training plan for ice. (And combining it with easy fasted cardio for fat-adaptation and weight loss)

    Somewhat concerned about the description, plan is for people aiming for WI4-5. Are the exercises easily scalable? (I’ve got your book btw) I’ve got decent strenght, lift weights and train core regurarly, but my power/weight ratio isn’t that good.

    My goal is to climb WI6 without shitting myself and to be fresher on and after long mountain days.

    What’s your thoughts?

    Regards from Sweden

    ErikW on #6376

    +1 for @danielj’s question above. Is the program scalable?

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