Everest 52 weeks out….Dont want to peak to early.

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  • #20196

    Hi guys, love reading all the useful info on this forum 🙂

    Firstly, a little bit about myself. My most recent climb was summiting Ama Dablam April 2018. I had intended on climbing Mt Pumori this Oct/Nov prior to attempting Everest this time next year. I have 2 questions that have been keeping me up at night lol.

    1) What are peoples views on attempting Mt Pumori in November then back to attempt Everest in April/May the following year? To close together to fully recover and start a new training block to be fully prepared for Ecerest? Or would the benefits of acclimatization on Pumori carry over on to Everest? I am pretty sure I know the answer already but keen to hear peoples views.

    2) If I decide to forget about Pumori and focus entirely on Everest and peak at the right time what training is best to focus on prior to starting my 24 week programme? I am presuming building my aerobic base and just general s&c so when I start the programme I am already in good shape? I just want to be careful not to burn out. (I am already in good shape as it is).

    Interested in hearing peoples views. Thanks guys?

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    Anonymous on #20232


    Great questions and I am glad to hear that you are taking the long view in your preparation for Everest.

    Several things need to be considered in determining if climbing Pumori 4-5 months before you leave for Everset is in your best interests.

    Exposure to altitude (even months ago) seems to make subsequent climbs to similar altitudes a bit easier. This is a general rule and depends on the individuals response to altitude. Some folks just acclimate poorly. Our personal experiences is that each trip to high elevation get’s easier for us.

    Several of the alpinists we have worked with have used short periods at altitude as training camps only a couple of months before major expeditions. Read these articles for more info

    David Goettler and Ueli Steck Put Low-Intensity Training to the Test in the Khumbu

    Running in the Khumbu to Acclimatize

    This program continues to be one we uses with high level climbers.

    The thing to keep in mind is that these “training camps” were less than 2 weeks long and the athletes were very fit before. That meant that as soon as they returned home that could begin training hard again. However……If you plan on a 4 week Pumori climb you will will very likely be quite fatigued and depleted when you get home and have lost a fair bit of your fitness base.

    I hope this helps

    killian.cosgrave on #20576

    Hi Scott,

    Thanks for taking the time to reply and confirming my thoughts on Pumori so close to attempting Everest. I am most definitely not in the same league as the climbers you mentioned above who have done short 2 week training blocks in the Himalayas lol so will put that idea to bed.

    With regards my second question, I basically have 24 weeks before its time to start my 24 week programme prior to leaving for Everest. Would you advise gradually increasing my aerobic base (money in the bank) week by week and mainly done in zone 2? General S&C increasing as I go also?


    Anonymous on #20584


    I recommend cycling through the 24 week plan twice between now and Everest. The more times you repeat a training cycle the higher the ending fitness will be. You’ll learn a great deal the first time through it that may help you adjust the plan on the second cycle.

    Good luck,

    killian.cosgrave on #20886

    Hi Scott,

    Excellent. Thank you.


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