Ergogenic Aids

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  • #4461
    NateGoodwin
    Participant

    Parker Webb and I’s discussion, along with an ergogenic aids lecture in my ExPhys class, sparked me to question what other climbers are using for ergogenic aids/performance enhancers? Im not talking doping, more so legal supplements (caffeine, sodium bicarbonate, niacin, etc).

    In the past I’ve used and heard of others using:
    Caffeine- CNS stimulant, helps early morning starts, fat burning??, vasoconstrictor
    Cayenne-Vasodilator (prevents frostbite), but also associated w/ increase carb metabolism
    Ibuprofen- anti inflammatory agent
    Nitrates (beet juice)- boosts endurance performance
    Nicotinamide Riboside- boosts endurance performance via increases in NAD+ (in mice models)

    But I would also be interested to hear what others opinions are as to where supplementation crosses into doping? Especially because alpinism has no governing body. In my opinion anything banned by The Anti-Doping World Standard (except cannabinoids) is doping in alpinism, along with supplemental O2 and altitude drugs, except in emergencies.
    https://www.wada-ama.org/sites/default/files/resources/files/2016-09-29_-_wada_prohibited_list_2017_eng_final.pdf

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