You can do a four-week Transition and then split the rest of the time between Base and Muscular Endurance periods.
I’ve been reading through Training for the New Alpinism, and love the book. I’m currently trying to use the principles laid out in the book to build my own 16-week training plan for a climb of the DC route on Rainier planned for late June.
Where I’m currently struggling to get started is in figuring out how to adapt the periods (Transition, Base, Specific) described in the book, which seem to coincide more with a 24-30+ week program, to a shorter 16-week program.
It seems like 16 weeks should be enough time to get adequately prepared, given a pretty good level of fitness at the start, but is that truly the case? If it is adequate, then how might the principles from the book be applied to a slightly more condensed program?
To give some indication of my current fitness level, I typically get in around 4-6 hours of activity/week, most of which is road and trail running, but typically with a few full-body workout sessions/week as well. I am able to run 10+ miles comfortably at a sub 9-minute pace.
Strength training is definitely where I feel like I have the biggest gains to make. While I’m not able to climb big mountains regularly, living on the east coast, I did do a climb on the north face of Mt. Shasta back in 2019. My training for that included lots of time hiking with a 35-45lbs pack up in the N. Georgia mountains, and running stairs when I couldn’t get up to the mountains, but was not so great in regards to strength training. While I did summit successfully, and felt confident that I could continue walking uphill all day, I definitely felt slow, and as we got closer to the summit and the altitude really started to take it’s toll, I felt particularly sluggish.
Thanks in advance for the help!
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