Base Training/Skill Training - TFTNA

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June 16, 2021 at 11:23 am #54905

chance.brewster
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Hello there,

I recently finished TFTNA and have a multi-layered question. As a 25 year old male coming from a strength training background and still a beginner in terms of skill when it comes to climbing (rock, ice, and alpine), should I focus on a nice transition period (8 weeks) and then stay in a base period while improving in the different disciplines of climbing throughout the year?

My thinking here is that while I need to build an aerobic base, I also need to build a climbing base. My goals aren’t so specific that I need sport specific climbing training (goals: Lead 5.6 Trad comfortably, follow WI6, TR 5.10a sport). I can cycle the strength training phases and continue with Z1 and Z2 work.

TLDR: For now, should I get strong in the weight room, improve my aerobic base, and climb easy to moderate routes a lot instead of following a periodization plan of peaking and training for specific types of climbing?

Thank you,
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Posted In: General Training Discussion

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Anonymous on June 16, 2021 at 12:47 pm #54913

That sounds like a good plan, but “get strong” for what?

For climbing? No. Many people (mostly men) think they need to get stronger to climb better, but (IMO) that’s only a factor at 5.12 (maybe even 5.13) and above.

At this point, improving your climbing technique with tons of easy mileage will do more for your climbing performance than strength training.

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Anonymous on June 16, 2021 at 12:49 pm #54914

… and that includes ice climbing. For WI6, some grip strength work might be helpful later on, but if you can improve your movement skills to toprope 5.11, then you should be in good shape to follow WI6.

Participant

chance.brewster on June 16, 2021 at 1:43 pm #54916

Get strong for climbing, but I also have a mountaineering objective in August (Mt.Baker/Koma Kulshan).

I appreciate the feedback Scott!

To clarify, keep the aerobic endurance training, but use my time to climb tons of easy mileage instead of strength training?

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Anonymous on June 17, 2021 at 2:35 pm #54939

I would focus on strength for endurance at this point. That will help your endurance training.

Participant

chance.brewster on June 17, 2021 at 6:48 pm #54947

Thanks Scott, strength training and climbing it is then.

No Zone 1 or 2 work?

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Anonymous on June 21, 2021 at 3:20 pm #55002

Sorry for the confusion. I meant in addition to general endurance work.

Many of our plans have 5-8h of endurance work per week and 1-2h of strength.

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