[Zirbelkiefer]

Hi Scott,

Great book and great site. I have been following the concepts of Training for the New Alpinism for several weeks now and I did a lactacte threshold test about two weeks ago. According to the test, my anaerobic threshold is at HR 179. My lactate level was 2 mmol at a heart rate of 157, however I am able to sustain nose breathing up to a heart rate of 165. Which measure should i use as a guideline for my zone 1 training? The test did not specify my aerobic threshold.

Second question: I would currently describe my base as weak (I can run a half marathon in approx. 2:05h while staying in zone 1). I wonder if I have enough base endurance to do the muscular endurance program or if I should extend the base periode (and start later with muscular endurance than recommended in the book).

Thank you for your tipps

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on July 13, 2017 at 10:21 pm #5586

You should definitely rely on the lactate test rather than the breathing test for the establishment of your Aerobic threshold. So use 157 for now. The spread between your aerobic and lactate threshold (179-157=22) is a bit over the 10% we’d like to see but this does not mean you can’t or shouldn’t use some high intensity training in your program now. You’ll see benefitsIf you have a planned trip/climb/goal coming up within a couple of months then I’d recommend using the weighted ME progression. If on the other hand you are not pressed for time I’d keep working on that aerobic base to get your AeT HR with 10% of the LT HR.

So make the call based on when you need to be at your highest fitness in this training cycle.
Scott